Rarely will you see the average well-dressed man wearing a bowtie. The number of excuses to even look fancy has certainly dwindled over the course of the pandemic.
Since his arrival in London, la Bowtique’s lead designer, Mickael, has done wonders to revive the passion for this elegant fashion item. His store, which now offers a digital presence for international customers, offers 3 fundamental designs.
With the Butterfly shape, each end of the tie curves outwards from the center bottleneck. Considered the definitive classic style, the Butterfly is also the most popular and is commonly worn by Mickael himself.
With the Batwing shape, the bow is straight. Though the most traditional of the three, it is observed as an unusual choice in the modern world.
With the Diamond shape, both of the bow’s ends are pointed such that when tied, the appearance is uneven. Though quite unusual like the aforementioned style, it gives off a more relaxed and easy vibe.
Correct Proportions
Of course, a multitude of other variants exist, including but not limited to bows that are crafted to sit directly underneath the collar as well as string bows that hang down. Mickael has custom-tailored designs at the behest of key clients of whom typically email him with an image asking if he can make it.
Yet, it would appear that the best variations are the ones that attempt to revise the three primary styles. In particular, the tried and true Butterfly.
The most obvious alteration includes the reduction of the bow’s size. A classic la Bowtique tie is up to 7cm at the height of the outer edge, a figure that falls in line with the majority of other brands. Increasing beyond this capacity is an aggressive path to a statement.
When going up, the bottom is often the one to take the bigger portion of the cake than the top, typically forming a drooped down style. This is the most subtle approach to adding size because it is practical (the bow does not jam into the chin) and aesthetically correct (its appearance falls in line with our time period).
As width should be considered only in proportion to the neck of the wearer, it should align with the outer edges of their eyes. When this rule is broken, it begins to appear silly. For example, even clowns wear tall ties, but they are also extremely wide. Keep the variables in balance.
The comparison with eyewear is due to how close a bowtie exists to the face. Consequently, very minute changes make a very visible difference.
The Material
Generally speaking, black ties should match a dinner jacket’s facings. This means grosgrain to grosgrain, and satin to satin. Despite this, there is some beauty to be found in the contrast of textures. It’s often a lot better of a decision than to implement bright colors.
Gray velvet can be seen as a welcome companion to a blue blazer, for instance. There are many different silks aside from the traditional grosgrain and satin. Several include slubby, barathea, and hopsack silks.
In addition to the type of material, the silks themselves have weight. Unfortunately, due to their stiffness, the heavier silks are only implemented for extra large bows.
Interlining variations also exist, though it’s often more appreciated to have a lighter weight lining so the wearer can focus on the weight of the silk instead of the lining.
Not nearly enough emphasis is placed on bowties in the same manner as the typical $5,000 tuxedo purchased to go with a low-end neckpiece. Customers often agonize over the details of the suit but fail to pay attention to the item closest to the face.